Destination

By Gaëtan Vaudry

Upon the announcement of my visit to Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean, the well-informed promptly provided me with a list of the finest dining spots not to be missed in the region. Among them was the table at the O'Batillage restaurant, offering exquisite local cuisine within the Auberge des Battures in the town of La Baie. Chef Étienne Trottier ensures a local supply that introduces us to the best of the boreal forest and regional producers. Even though we were in the low season of November, the team at O'Batillage welcomed us wonderfully. For my part, I was treated to a three-course meal, starting with smoked salmon from La Boucanerie d’Henri. Beyond this salmon, which I believe is the best in Quebec, the dish included a Frambleu coulis (from Domaine Le Cageot), cucumbers, flaxseed oil (from Ferme Tournevent), capers, raspberries, and puffed wild rice. An unmissable starter!

For the main course, I chose the seafood pasta featuring fresh tagliolini (La Prod LP) in Mornay sauce, Matane shrimp, Prince Edward Island mussels, Iles-de-la-Madeleine scallops, white fish, and sea lettuce. A generous portion that satisfies hearty appetites. Of course, we always save room for dessert, and I was tempted by an excellent crème brûlée. I could not have made a better choice!

Experiencing the restaurant at Auberge des Battures is certainly a delight for the taste buds, but it is equally pleasing for the eyes. Throughout my substantial meal, the establishment, managed by Mr. Éric Civel, offered me an unparalleled view of the Saguenay Fjord. A feast for all your senses.

Restaurant O'Batillage / Auberge des Battures
6295, boulevard de la grande Baie Sud Saguenay, La Baie district
418 544-8234
https://obatillage.com

Long renowned throughout the 20th century for shipbuilding, when large vessels would depart to transport timber overseas, Shippagan also saw significant growth in its fishing industry, ultimately becoming New Brunswick's most important fishing center.

It's no surprise that each year, Shippagan invites friends to celebrate at the New Brunswick Fisheries and Aquaculture Festival, which draws thousands of visitors. Today, it's the peat bog exploitation industry that is experiencing significant growth in the town and regional economy, creating hundreds of jobs.

The University of Moncton operates and manages a campus here, where hundreds of students from various regions and abroad complete programs such as a Bachelor's in Sustainable Development and Coastal Zones, Information Management, Nursing, Technology, Information and Leadership, as well as Diplomas in Business Administration and Health Sciences, among others.



Located slightly off the beaten path, about 15 km from Highway 11 which connects Caraquet, the regional capital, to Tracadie-Sheila, the town of Shippagan offers an abundance of outdoor activities, whether it's camping, kitesurfing, sailing, cycling, sea swimming, or simply relaxing on sandy beaches.

Situated between Saint-Simon Bay and the channel of Chaleur Bay leading to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Shippagan presents magnificent landscapes that can be discovered through its numerous cycling circuits and the shoreline trail that runs behind downtown. Additionally, the Acadian Peninsula Véloroute provides access to the entire Peninsula and features rest areas along its route.



Shippagan houses the New Brunswick Aquarium and Marine Centre. Beautiful aquariums showcase the rich collection of fish and invertebrates from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Several grey seals are also on display, and visitors can touch seafood and other marine creatures.

The Haut-Shippagan area features a truly unique resort destination: Cielo Glamping. Guests can sleep in fully equipped domes, complete with a terrace and spa, offering direct access to the bay. It's one of the premier spots to disconnect while fully embracing everything nature has to offer. Come share a meal at its Hub where the chef prepares dishes using local ingredients, enjoy coffee from the roastery, or savor a local beer.

Walking in the streets of Vieux-Québec is like following in the steps of the pioneers who gave birth to this nation. Founded by Samuel de Champlain as a trading post in 1608, the colony first developed around l’Habitation de Québec before expanding into the first streets traced around the Place Royale in the heart of the Vieux-Port. Restored in the early 1970s, this historical district brings us back in time to the capital of Nouvelle-France (New France) at the end of the 17th century. This was the era of Louis XIV, a bust of whom adorns the area. As I myself am a descendant of Mathurin Gagnon, who was one of the first merchants of Québec and whose home and retail store were located at the current site of the Sault-au-Matelot park (or Parc de l’Unesco), walking on the cobblestones of these historic sites is like reconnecting with the history of our roots in this country. A few steps away, Place Royale is the main site of the annual Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France, recreating the French colonial era of its original inhabitants.

In the Vieux-Port, one must absolutely visit the Musée de la Civilisation. The neighborhood is home to many gay-friendly establishments, among them the restaurant Marie-Clarisse, which was opened at the foot of the Casse-Cou staircase by nenowned chef Serge Bruyère.

Heading up to Haute-ville, one can admire the elements of fortification which have made Québec unique, for it is the only still-fortified city in North America. It is the neighborhood commonly reffered to as Vieux-Québec. Built at the end of the 19th century near the Citadelle fort, the hotel Château Frontenac rises above Place Royal on one side of the Terrasse Dufferin. The latter is a splendid walkway offering a spectacular view of the area and is perfect for romantic strolls. One can easily understand why the founders of Québec chose this strategic spot to establish the colony, which would become the capital of New France, then Lower Canada and finally, Québec.

The gay lifestyle took root fairly early in Vieux-Québec. The Sauna-hôtel Hippocampe on Mac Mahon Street, the oldest gay establishment still operating in the province (where some might recognize the interiors used for Robert Lepage’s film Le Confessionnal), has been open for over four decades. The owner, Yvon Pépin, had previously tended bar in many Vieux-Québec clubs, in a time when homosexual life was still mostly underground.

André Gagnon

Sillery, Sainte-Foy and Cap-Rouge have the reputation of being the more affluent neighborhoods of the capital. This area is home of the main campus of Université Laval, the oldest francophone higher education establishment in America, where the first LGTBQ organization in the capital, the Groupe gai de l’Université Laval, first appeared.

Whether arriving in Québec from the south shore using the highway or the Chemin du Roy, or coming in from the international airport, one inevitably crosses this district before accessing downtown Québec. There are also many hotels in the vicinity of the bridges, especially along Laurier Boulevard. This might be the more practical choices for those coming into the city by car, as the old narrow streets of Old Québec where obviously conceived for horse-drawn carriages and pedestrians, not cars. Shoppers will appreciate the proximity of the shopping malls also found on Laurier Boulevard.

Coming over the bridges from this district, you should visit the Promenade Samuel –De-Champlain park along the river, which was inaugurated in 2008 for the 400^th anniversary of the city. Whether arriving by foot, bike or car, the promenade offers a spectacular view of the city and leads right into historic Old Québec. This is a great way to connect with a natural environment in the heart of the city.

Sillery is certainly the most affluent neighborhood of the capital. Its trendiest street, Maguire Avenue, is an area especially appreciated by our community, offering quaint boutiques, with good restaurants and nice terraces. It also features one of the most remarkable parks in the city, Spencer Wood, which became a showcase for horticulture in North America through the efforts of its owner, Henry Atkinson. For nearly 20 years, the governor-generals of United Canada lived on the property, which was purchased by the Québec government in 1870 and served as the residence of Québec lieutenant-governors until 1966. A major fire eventually destroyed the main residence. Visit the gorgeous park by the Saint Lawrence River, the beautiful gardens and relics of the site's long history.

Villa Bagatelle, with its distinctive irregular forms and ornamentations, was built in the picturesque English architectural style of the 19th century. The cultural centre hosts temporary art and history exhibitions. The Villa is also renowned for its garden where you can admire many native plants and a range of underbrush species.

Also noteworthy is the Aquarium du Québec, with its gardens and outdoor tanks, and a main building featuring many exhibition spaces. The venue includes nearly 10 000 specimens representing 300 species of mammals, indigenous and exotic fish, invertebrates, amphibians and reptiles. Watch marine mammals, such as polar bears, walruses and several seal species, frolic in the outdoor park. Many animals from the Pacific Ocean swim in our huge 350 000-litre tank. The area overlooks the Saint Lawrence River from atop a cliff, an excellent way of discovering these faraway regions.

Crossing the Matapedia Valley, one reaches the Restigouche River, into which the Matapedia flows. The Restigouche empties into the Chaleur Bay in the heart of the Appalachians. It is a river globally renowned as a salmon river and part of Canadian heritage. The name Restigouche comes from the Anglicization of Listuguj, the name of the Mi'gmaq community that camped along its banks hundreds of years before the arrival of the first French colonizers. Even today, the community of Listuguj, one of the most significant Mi'gmaq communities in the Maritimes, stands on the Quebec side opposite the town of Campbellton in New Brunswick.

On the right bank of the Restigouche, the newly merged town of Campbellton forms, along with the communities of Listuguj and Pointe-à-la-Croix connected by the interprovincial bridge, the most significant conurbation in the Chaleur Bay with its some 15,000 inhabitants.
The Mi'kmaq called the site Wisiamkik, meaning muddy place, referring to the sediments in the narrows of the Restigouche. The site was named Pointe-des-Sauvages around 1700 during the French colonial era, and a small village was founded there by deported Acadians in 1755, while more than 1,000 deportees settled across in Petite-Rochelle. This significant village only had a brief existence as it was razed under the orders of James Wolfe after the fall of New France in 1760. The site became a mere trading post for decades as the Acadians dispersed and founded various villages around Chaleur Bay. The town truly emerged with Scottish immigration to the region in the early 19th century. The town originally bore various names. The current name was given in 1833 in honor of Sir Archibald Campbell, Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick from 1831 to 1837.

Since 2014, Pride has been a growing event. in Pembroke. Pride Walk began when a group of friends decided that the city—and the Ottawa Valley area in general—needed more LGBTQ+ awareness and representation. So, they organized their first Pride event in 2014, a walk through downtown Pembroke with almost 150 attendees. In the past five years, their work has expanded beyond events—organizers recently partnered with PFLAG Renfrew County to bring support meetings to the Ottawa Valley. And events go well beyond the OG walk; last year’s schedule included an inclusive yoga class, Drag Queen Storytime at Pembroke’s public library, an all-ages drag show and, of course, brunch, an overall attendance of a thousand people.

Usually taking place early June, the 2020 schedule is still to be confirmed due to the current coronavirus pandemic.

The territories of the Gaspé and the Maritimes covered in this Guide have been occupied for millennia by the Mi'gmaqs whom the French called Micmacs. Even today, it is the communities of this First Nation that you will meet throughout this territory.
In Gaspé, the symbolic site of the first encounters between French explorer Jacques Cartier and this Aboriginal nation, the Micmac Interpretation Site of Gespeg's mission is to showcase the Mi'kmaq culture of the Gaspé community. Through its interpretive activities, this site highlights the history of the community from 1675 to the present day, offering an authentic and original experience to its visitors. The on-site store offers a range of authentic and quality handcrafted products. It showcases Mi'gmaq craftsmanship as well as other products from native cultures of Quebec.
On the Baie des Chaleurs side, Gesgapegiag attracts many tourists eager to take advantage of the various attractions of this part of Mi'gmaq territory. For tourists coming to tour the Gaspé, it is possible to stop in the community for a picnic in the community park or to admire the tipi that was erected by the sea in 2018.
The community of Gesgapegiag has acquired a chalet estate and has set up several tipis in Anse Sainte-Hélène to offer tourists the chance to experience an authentic stay. It is also possible for tourists to stay in the replica of the ship La Grande Hermine, one of the ships used by Jacques Cartier. For hikers and snowmobilers, Le Relais de la Cache is located near the Chic-Chocs mountains.
Every year in July, the community organizes a Pow-Wow, a traditional festival attended by all the Mi'gmaqs of the region and to which all those interested in learning about their culture and traditions are invited. This celebration combines songs, dances, cuisine and traditional stories.

Built along the port, the formerly walled off old city has a gastronomic tradition that goes back to the colony’s beginnings. A time when hostels welcomed visitors from all over the continent and across the Atlantic. The Maison Pierre-du-Calvet, which was constructed in 1771, today still attests to this tradition, as it is the oldest building in Montréal still welcoming visitors and offering them its copious cuisine in the style of 18th century inns. Since that time, the gastronomic propositions have of course evolded and become more diversified – there are many great restaurants to be discovered in historic Old Montréal.

Near Notre-Dame Cathedral, you can begin or end your evening at L’Assommoir, with its trendy atmosphere and emphasis is on products of the terroir. On De la Commune street, just next to the Old Port, Da Emma is à Montréal Classic. From the decor to the plate, everything here transports us to Italy. More specifically, to one of those dining cellars that you only come across in Rome, which seems almost frozen in time. Located in a basement, the intimate space seats 140, plus another 70 on the terrace in front of the restaurant, weather permitting.

At the entrance, the celebrity wall confirms the reputation of the establishment with a numerous photos of stars from all over the world photographed with Emma. White tablecloths, period paintings, stone walls and wooden ceilings… the Italian charm is immediately felt, and most welcome.
With the urban re-development of the Faubourg aux Récollets west of Old Montréal, McGill Street has become a sought-after stretch of great restaurants and bistros from the Old Port to Victoria square. With its warm décor and friendly, laid-back ambiance, Ikanos invites you to rediscover some of the classics of Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, reinvented by the chef and owner Constant Mentzas. The seafood and fish is carefully selected and grilled in wood fire ovens. Located on the site of the old Soeurs Grises nunnery near the Old Port, the Bistro Brasserie Les Soeurs Grises offers a selection of home-brewed beers and a menu composed of local products.

The governments of Canada and Quebec are taking an important step by announcing their joint intention to begin working to expand the boundaries of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park. This project aims to better protect the biodiversity and ecosystems of the St. Lawrence Estuary, which is home to nearly 2,200 species, some of which, like the beluga, are in a precarious situation.

The announcement was made today by Steven Guilbeault, Minister of Environment and Climate Change and Minister responsible for Parks Canada, and the Québec Minister of Environment, Climate Change, Benoit Charette.

Protection of the St. Lawrence beluga

The expansion project's main objective is to protect the critical habitat of the St. Lawrence beluga, of which more than 60 percent currently lies outside the boundaries of the marine park. It also aims to preserve a high-quality feeding ground for several species of whales, some of which are in a precarious situation. In 2020, as a first act of protection by the Government of Québec, and while waiting for a legal status of protection, territorial reserves were set aside with the end goal of eventually creating protected areas. This project would help to consolidate the protection of a significant part of these territories. As currently planned, the project could quadruple the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park's area.

Today's announcement is a first step toward expansion of the marine park. In the coming months, the governments of Canada and Québec will jointly meet with regional and municipal organizations, as well as all stakeholders involved in the project, including First nations, research groups and local businesses to exchange perspectives and obtain feedback. Finally, a public consultation phase will be held, during which the proposed limits and the proposed protection measures will be discussed.

Recognized expertise

Backed with more than 25 years of Canada-Québec co-management and participatory governance in the region, the marine park is a unique model for collaboration and partnerships for the conservation of the marine environment. The expertise of its coordination committee and its teams in the fields of marine activity regulation, education, awareness, visitor experience and scientific research makes it a privileged protection tool, mainly for marine mammals, adapted to the context of the St. Lawrence estuary and the Saguenay Fjord.

The governments of Canada and Quèbec recognize that the protection of an environment as extensively used as the St. Lawrence Estuary requires strong joint cooperation, close collaboration with all members of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Coordination Committee and consultation with a multitude of regional stakeholders.Quotes:

''As a joint Québec-Canada marine protected area, the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park has a 25-year history of collaborative conservation and public education successes. Its expansion will allow our governments to work together on several shared priorities, including the protection of marine biodiversity and the recovery of species at risk such as the St. Lawrence beluga. This collaboration between our governments is a clear sign that protecting biodiversity and endangered species is a shared priority. At COP15, we made ambitious commitments, a"nd today we are taking an important step towards achieving these goals."  Declares S teven Guilbeault, Minister responsible for Parks Canada

"The Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a source of national pride and a true natural jewel of Quebec. The Government of Québec is proud of this unique partnership with the federal government, which will improve the protection of marine mammals living in the Saint Lawrence Estuary, such as the beluga, which is an emblematic species of the fragility of this habitat. The knowledge gained in recent years sends a clear signal of what we must do to protect it. With extensive experience in co-management and participatory governance, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a model for protecting marine environments that promote sustainable tourism and benefit local communities. I am convinced that the leadership, experience and trusting relationships that have been at the heart of the park's management since its inception will be catalysts for the next steps toward this promising expansion project for our nation!"

Added Benoit Charette, Québec Minister of the Environment, the Fight against Climate Change, Wildlife and Parks

Highlights

Concerns about the decline of the beluga and its habitat were a determining factor in the creation of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park (SSMP) in 1998. The SSMP is a unique Québec/Canada joint marine protected area created by Québec and federal legislation, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Act.
With a current surface area of 1,245 square kilometres (km2), the SSMP is located on Quèbec public lands at the confluence of the Saguenay River and the St. Lawrence Estuary. Its mandate is to enhance the level of protection of the ecosystems of a representative part of the Saguenay Fjord and the St. Lawrence Estuary for the purposes of conservation and environmental protection of the exceptional flora and fauna and natural resources found there, in addition to promoting sustainable educational, recreational and scientific activities.
The management of SSMP, under the joint responsibility of the Ministère de l'Environnement, de la Lutte contre les changements climatiques, de la Faune et des Parcs, of the Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq) and Parks Canada, is based on a participatory governance approach that is unique in Canada and relies on stakeholders working together at the local, regional and national levels to achieve its objectives. Its coordination committee is composed of representatives of the Essipit Innu First Nation, the Wolastoqiyik Wahsipekuk First Nation, the Charlevoix-Est regional county municipalities (RCM), the Saguenay Fjord, la Haute-Côte-Nord, and representatives of the three southern shore RCMs (des Basques, Rivière-du-Loup and Kamouraska), the scientific community, and the interpretation and education community.
Since the creation of SSMP in 1998, significant efforts have been made by the involved parties to preserve marine mammals, including beluga. However, its population has continued to decline since then, at a rate of about 1% per year. It now has fewer than 900 individuals. Since the 2000s, there has been a critical and unexplained increase in mortality among newborns and females of reproductive age, which suggests an acceleration of the beluga's decline in the coming years.

You can’t talk about Mile End gastronomy without talking about Montréal’s Jewish and Eastern European heritage. It is the centre of the emblematic institutions of this legacy in the city, where immigrant Jews, most of them from Eastern Europe, brought us the bagel, the smoked meat sandwich and cured sausages in the early 20th century. In Mile End you’ll find the two temples of bagels that are Fairmount Bagel and Saint-Viateur Bagel. The story goes that the Montréal bagel is sweeter and more delicate than its New York cousin, a probable result of adapting to local taste. Try out a sausage sandwich at Wilensky’s on Fairmount Street. Smoked meat fans will definitely want to wait in line to try Montréal’s famous smoked meat sandwiches at the restaurant Schwartz on St-Laurent, just south of the Mile End.

The specialties of bagels and sandwiches associated with the Mile End neighbourhood are most probably linked to its being a favoured brunching destination. This tradition has been well established by the restaurant Beauty’s on Mont-Royal Avenue, where bagels are a specialty. Restaurants such as B & M or Fabergé, located on St-Viateur and Fairmount respectively, offer their own updated version of the Mile End brunch. The Syrian restaurant Kazamaza on Parc Avenue even proposes a Middle Eastern version of it.

The multiethnic character of the neighbourhood is, of course, also reflected in the more refined eateries of the area, with some fine cuisine from all sides of the Mediterranean basin. In the intimate décor of bistro Barcola on Parc Avenue, you will discover authentic Northern Italian cuisine. At the limits of Outremont on the corner of Van Horne and Hutchison, the Caffé Della Pace prepares a variety of Italian coffees and offers healthy, homemade vegetarian dishes composed of fresh ingredients. The prices are very reasonable and the atmosphere is friendly, with a piano in one corner and sofas in another. Both families with children and queers rub shoulders here. The fancy bistro Chez Lévêque on Laurier West has remained a very popular spot for the past 45 years. There is a humorous, slightly irreverent tone here, and a religious theme is displayed in reference to the patronymic of chef and co-owner Pierre Lévêque (L’évêque meaning Bishop). This chic Parisian brasserie with a distinctive Montréal touch has never deviated from the concept that made its success: good food and wine, in a trendy but casual ambiance. Their “faim de soirée” menu becomes available after 9pm, with more affordable prices attracting a younger clientele.

Of course, this neighbourhood’s culinary spectrum is much larger than what we can possibly cram into this page, and Local Montréal Tours can design customized gourmet tours that allow for rich and diverse Mile End discoveries.